11 February 2010.
FA C Edelstein, T Firman and F Davids
After all the vitriol that emanated from the bolting that the visiting German climbers did at Yellowwood I decided to go up there and deal with the problem. I fished out a builder’s hammer from my tool box and with Farrell and Tristan set out for Yellowwood at 05h30 in the morning on the 12 Feb 2010. The forecast was for 36 degrees C heat and I found solace in the fact that this was to be a training day and that I could improve on the 1.4kg I had shed from the barrel that was beginning to replace the six pack embedded in my rectus abdominis. (Go Google it…)
On the way up I thought better of my intentions and decided that the way to keep the destroyers away from this sanctuary of trad climbing was to open all the lines on trad. And the best way to do so efficiently was to start with the easier lines. The mandate to Tristan and Farrell was that we had to top out, no pitch must be harder than 19, the route must be safe and therefore steep and on good rock and the pro must be bomber.
We succeeded in fine style except for one pitch that can easily be fixed.
So this was the first one and there are plenty to come.
Slack Time is a seriously traddy trad route on good gear on steep rock. The photo has been taken off to the right side and is not ideal and gives the impression that the route is not straight.
But in fact it is mostly a direct line. Watch this space for a better photo and topo.
The climbing for its grade is very consistent and the rock quality is mostly excellent with Krakadouw type rock at the top. The pro is excellent and loose rock and vegetation is avoidable. It needs a few ascents to refine it and rid it off the odd flora and loose rock that is inherent on this kind of route. Experienced trad climbers can probably top out before the sun bakes the place and it would make a fine alternative to a day on the ledge doing Atlantic Crag and Jacobs Ladder -again!. It is technically easier than No More Bells but more accessible and it does require more “big wall” competence and temperament as retreating will require some experience at doing so on big cliffs.
It won’t be surprising if a route such as this becomes a very popular big wall country route and there are more to be done.
Pitch 1 : (19)Walk left along a ledge system to a cairn. Traverse low below an overhang past a green bush and step down after 5m to end below a steep white face. Climb up the right facing corner and exit left above it to a small ledge with a bush.
Pitch 2 : (20) Climb directly up from the ledge past the thin crux(tiny cam). Continue to the large left facing corner and up this to a comfy ledge.
Pitch 3 : (19) Move right and do a tricky stem move in a grey groove and continue diagonally right to the large overhang. Traverse left to a blocky stance.
Pitch 5 (16) and 6: (18/19) Climb diagonally right to the monster sized pillar and traverse to the right at its base. Continue up and right to a right facing corner and exit diagonally left to a bushy stance. These pitches can be combined.
Pitch 7 : (14) Climb up and left and up easy rock to a stance below shiny grey rock and easy cracks 15m right.
Pitch 8 : (17) Climb the crack system to the next ledge and stance
Pitch 9 : (20/21) Climb the overhanging jamb crack and continue up the steep crack and face to a stance on the right below a right facing corner. (Krakadouw pitch *****)
Pitch 10 : (18) Climb the corner and continue past a short chimney crack above. Continue up the left facing corner and exit left and then find your way to the top
Scramble off.
FA: C Edelstein, F Davids and T Firman Summer 2009 FA Pitch 9 "Krakadouw" pitch C Edelstein and Neels Havenga 20 Jan 2010
1 comment:
Slacker.
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