Sunday, October 19, 2008

Down Time; A New Descent on Yellowwood Amphitheatre



Down Time:

A new descent off Yellowwood Amphitheatre:

Om Wednesday, 23 April 2008, two old guys, average age 47 or so, hauled, amongst other things, a large battery pack, 6 litres of water, drill, bolts, rack, two ropes AND ten monster size 10mm maillons up to the top of Yellowwood amphitheatre via Smallblaar Ridge. They established a 4 station rappel route to the right of Prime Time and Newborn and left of Armageddon Time and Smalblaar ridge. The first station starts on a ledge 3 m down from the very top. There is a large cairn built on the ledge which is easily visible when looking down. And there is a smaller cairn on top. It is easy to find if one susses the line out from the base where a bolt and hanger is visible about 5m up at the bivvy site. The rappel line is to the right of the middle of the amphitheatre and (obviously) to the right of the huge overhangs that cap Newborn and Prime Time.

At the top it is about 30m or so left of the gully that one passes if walking from the top of Armageddon Time.
Critical Beta!

We used two Blue Water ice-floss 8.1mm ropes that may be longer than 60m. The first rappel is slightly overhanging and requires placement of directional gear to keep the ropes to the face. About halfway down there is a bomb-proof rock 6 nut. Be sure to clip it on the way down and leave it there for the next party. Consider making a station there if you are not sure that your ropes will reach the ledge below. It can easily be backed up with another larger nut or cam! Continue placing gear to pull the ropes to the face below this piece. Otherwise you may have a long prussic.

The second rappel is slightly less than 60m.

The 3rd rappel is again at the limit of these ropes to a small standing ledge but should be fine if your ropes were long enough for the first rappel.

The 4th rappel does not reach the ground and one can either scramble down the last 5m or use the single bolt and maillon for a last 5m rappel.

If your ropes are not long enough for the first rappel, then rather walk-dassie crawl left about 70m along the halfway ledge to the rappel chains on Newborn. It will be safer that way. (We hope to improve on this situation during another visit).

Finally! Be sure to untwist your ropes before pull-down. You could be in for a long night!

Thank you Leonard Rust for permission to use the photo of the wall and routes. Your topo is slightly incorrect for the 3rd pitch of Blood is Sweeter than Honey. It takes the left version.

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