Tony Dick and I had a great day on the Ledge yesterday.
I first failed on Captain Hook in Dec 1986 with Clive Curson when I dislocated my thumb and suffered reversing the rail. I have tried the route many times since then and yesterday, despite a very hot and sweaty walk up IV with my family, did the tea thing and then at last put to rest one of my last great vendettas. The move round the roof is well protected by two bomber small cams - effectively a top rope - but the move itself is probably one of the hardest single moves I have ever done. The Ape index is quite critical for this move - even and especially if one does the knee bar. So the ostensible grade of 23 is rather irrelevant to me considering that I recently climbed 5 or 6 pitches at Milner graded 25 or 26, Africa Arette 25 and Prime Time Direct E56a (25).
Feeling quite stoked and confident Tony and I then went off to do Mellow Steady Flow 23. Tony led the first grade 21 pitch which I screwed up doing the move off the ground using the wrong hand. But I redeemed myself by on-sighting the next two "heady" pitches 20 and 23. The 23 pitch is rarely done and is extremely thin and intimidating. 2 very very old pegs mark the route and inspire no confidence. But they can be backed up by tiny but very good nut and cam placements. (Aliens or Metolius mastercams). Tony tried to give me the beta but it really does not help. Everyone will climb that pitch a little differently as it is size and reach dependent. So if anyone gets to do it, just work it out for yourself and take a selection of tiny cams with you and small nuts and RP's. The pitch is quite safe if you have the where-with-all and forearms to place the extra gear which requires some clinging on. And one then needs some reserve to finish the move to the ledge above which is off very small and not-so-positive crimps and foot holds. I rate this pitch at least as hard as Africa Arette first pitch and is comparable to Eternity Road 23 w.r.t. gear placements and difficulty.
Although it is scary it is actually quite safe but your belayer must be alert and watchful. This route is really worth doing and a brilliant test piece at the grade and it simply must get more ascents...
